Laos — Tour — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos — upper cave

Visiting the upper cave

September 2015

Getting to the upper cave from the lower was quite a slog up some steps.

Laos — Tour — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos — the lower cave
Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos — the lower cave

The walk to the upper cave was nice, as I saw some beautiful butterflies and a couple of lizards.

Photo by Author — the approach to the upper caves — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — the approach to the upper caves — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos

There was a carved wooden frieze at the entrance to the upper cave (see the photo below), and as I entered the cave, I was offered a torch. You will need it in the caves as there is no artificial light. I declined the use of a torch as I had my own.

Photo by Author — the entrance to the upper caves — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — the entrance to the upper caves — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos

As I entered the cave, a plaque said restoration work was done in 1932. An inscription stated that a monk had repaired the belly of the Buddha sculpture just after the Second World War. Additionally restoration had been carried out thanks to a five-year Australian and Lao Governments' conservation project starting in 1992. The work removed six tons of fallen material, rebuilt the masonry structures, recorded and catalogued the sculptures, and carried out repairs.

The cave extended for over 50 metres and was very dark at the rear — hence the need for the torch.

On the left, as I entered, was a carved wooden water channel and miniature house for the ceremonially washing sculptures of Buddha.

Although difficult to see in the photo below, there is a swan at one end of the water trough and a dragon at the other.

Photo by Author — entering the upper caves — note the carved wooden water channel for washing sculptures of Buddha on the left — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — entering the upper caves — note the carved wooden water channel for washing sculptures of Buddha on the left — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos

Further in the cave, I found groups of sculptures ranging from 10 cm to 1.5 m in size. An information plaque said that the cave once housed a large seated figure of Buddha.

Photo by Author — Buddhas in the upper cave — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — Buddhas in the upper cave — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — a shrine in the upper cave — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — a shrine in the upper cave — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos

The cave was dark.

Photo by Author — looking back to the entrance of the upper cave — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — looking back to the entrance of the upper cave — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos

And there were so many statues to see.

Photo by Author — Buddhas in the upper cave — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — Buddhas in the upper cave — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — Buddhas in the upper cave — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — Buddhas in the upper cave — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos

And there was some rather odd artwork on the walls of the cave.

Photo by Author — a painted Buddha — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — a painted Buddha — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos

As I left the dark cave, the hot sun of Laos seemed very bright, and I had to be careful as I picked my way down the stairs back to my boat.

Photo by Author — the way back down from the upper caves — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — the way back down from the upper caves — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — the way back down from the upper caves — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — the way back down from the upper caves — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos

Finally, I arrived back at the Mekong River and saw my starting point, Ban Pak Ou village, on the far bank.

Photo by Author — the Mekong River with the village (Ban Pak Ou) in the distance — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — the Mekong River with the village (Ban Pak Ou) in the distance — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos

Several boats were waiting to take visitors back across the river at the water’s edge.

Photo by Author — boats waiting to take visitors back across the Mekong River to Ban Pak Ou — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — boats waiting to take visitors back across the Mekong River to Ban Pak Ou — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — boats waiting to take visitors back across the Mekong River to Ban Pak Ou — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — boats waiting to take visitors back across the Mekong River to Ban Pak Ou — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos

I found my boat, and we headed back across the river.

Getting in and out of the boat and on and off the jetties was difficult. It was all very shaky and unstable.

Photo by Author — my driver for the trip back over the Mekong Rover to Ban Pak Ou — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos
Photo by Author — my driver for the trip back over the Mekong Rover to Ban Pak Ou — Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, Laos

Quite a bit of money had been spent on the facilities at the Tham Ting (Tam Ting)/Pak Ou (ถ้ำติ่ง) Caves, and sadly the facilities were now in decay.

When I arrived at the caves around 9:20 am, I was the only tourist in the lower and upper caves. A few more tourists arrived around 10:15.

The upper cave was better than the lower cave, as I found it had a more serene atmosphere. Sitting in the dark in the cool of the cave, listening to the locals chatting at the entrance, and the sound of boats going up and down the Mekong was very relaxing. But, I did scare two tourists who walked into the cave as I was sitting there in the dark and were shocked when I turned on my torch and said hello.

Despite paying an entrance fee, I was asked for a donation as I left the cave entrances.

I left the caves at 10:30, and by 11 am, I was back in the village.

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