Myanmar (Burma) — Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

I finally found the Taukkyan War Cemetery

March 2015

The Taukkyan War Cemetery is about 20 miles (ca. 30 km), 50 minutes excluding traffic, north of Yangon (Rangoon), and it is a remarkable place worth a visit.

The taxi to the cemetery cost 15,000 kyats (US$15, £10) each way and took around 90 minutes to complete the journey — again, each way. It is so far out of Yangon (Rangoon) that the ’no motorbikes’ rule no longer applies.

I found the cemetery to be a remarkable place and profoundly moving. It is beautifully designed and very well-kept. While there, I witnessed (see the photos below) the workers repainting the memorial plaques with incredible attention to detail.

Photo by Author — Entrance to the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Entrance to the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

Just inside the front gate is an inscription that reads:

“1939–1945 The land on which this cemetery stands is the gift of the Burmese people for the perpetual resting place of the sailors soldiers and airmen who are honoured here”

Photo by Author — Inscription at the main gate — Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Inscription at the main gate — Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

There is also a sign that reads:

“The land on which this cemetery stand is the perpetual resting place of the sailors, soldiers and air.men who gave their lives during World War I & Il, that solemn site for the sake of honour and respect. Dumping, gathering, romping, being noisy, disturbing others and inappropriate behaviours are prohibited.”

Photo by Author — Sign at the main gate — Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Sign at the main gate — Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The cross at the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The cross at the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

The war cemetery was amazingly well maintained. When I visited, I watched a group of workers carefully cleaning the graves and repainting the markers.

Photo by Author —
Photo by Author —
Photo by Author — Repairing the grave markers — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Repairing the grave markers — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Repairing the grave markers — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Repairing the grave markers — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

The marker plaques were stripped back.

Photo by Author — Repairing the grave markers — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Repairing the grave markers — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

Resprayed.

Photo by Author — Repairing the grave markers — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Repairing the grave markers — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

And then cleaned to reveal the details. Stunning work.

Photo by Author — Repairing the grave markers — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Repairing the grave markers — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma), was very well-kept, and I was not the only visitor.

Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

The central part of the main memorial had the inscription:

“Here are recorded the names of twenty-seven thousand soldiers of many races united in service to the British Crown who gave their lives in Burma and Assam but to who the fortunes of war denied the customary rites accorded to their comrades in death.”

The memorial building records the names of nearly 27,000 service members who were killed in the second world war and had no known grave.

Photo by Author — Memorial building — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Memorial building — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

Walking between the pillars is a humbling experience.

Photo by Author — Memorial building — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Memorial building — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

What is striking was not only the number of names, but all the different parts of the world from where the service members came, plus how many of them were from India and Nepal (the Gurkhas).

Photo by Author — Memorial building — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Memorial building — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Memorial building — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Memorial building — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Memorial building — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — Memorial building — the Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)
Photo by Author — The Taukkyan War Cemetery, Yangon (Rangoon), Myanmar (Burma)

Overall, I was very impressed with the cemetery. It was beautifully maintained, and it was humbling to see all the graves and the names on the memorial.

A sobering and reflective experience.